Southern Illinois Backroads Tourism: In Little Egypt it means bluffs, Superman, even scuba diving

MARION, Ill. — Years ago urban planners described the heart of Southern Illinois as "metrolakeland," a patchwork of cities of 5,000 to 20,000 connected by four-lane highways and two huge lakes: 7,000-acre Crab Orchard and 19,000-acre Rend.

The Main Street of this region — Illinois 13 from Harrisburg 36 miles west to Carbondale and dissected by Interstate 57 at Marion — is the population base and site of the economic engine: Southern Illinois University at Carbondale.

But if you're looking for Southern Illinois' specialty — backroads tourism — head south on Illinois 1 (or U.S. 45, Interstate 57 or U.S. 51) to the 280,000-acre Shawnee National Forest and surrounding Shawnee Hills.

Courtesy Clyde Wills Before he was president, Barrack Obama posed in front of the Superman statue in Metropolis, Ill.

Courtesy Mermet-Springs diving-at-Mermet-Springs in southern Illinois.

Photograph by Taylor Reed Garden of the Gods

Photograph by Taylor Reed cedarfalls in southern Illinois

The forest stretches from the Ohio River on the east to the Mississippi River on the west, a landscape etched with Ozark foothills, caves, horseback riding stables, rockclimbing cliffs, wineries, bed and breakfast cabins and quirky tourist attractions.

You can scuba dive to the sunken fuselage of a 727 jet, ride a ferry boat or river taxi, see a pirate cave, bicycle 47 miles on an abandoned railroad bed, stand atop lofty sandstone bluffs and rock formations, meet reenactors at a frontier fort, dine at a root beer saloon, photograph a winery built like a Tuscan villa or pose — hands on hip — in front of a giant statue of Superman.

That's what Barack Obama did before running for president.

Far from Chicago's skyscrapers and Illinois' prairies, the pointy end of Illinois resembles an arrowhead. As it narrows to a tip, the distance between the two mighty rivers dwindles from 80 to 40 to 20 miles until, at Cairo, you see the Ohio meet the Mississippi.

Locals call this the Land Between the Rivers or "Little Egypt."

One theory suggests northern Illinois settlers came south to buy grain during the poor harvests of the 1830s, similar to Genesis' account of ancient people traveling to Egypt for grain. Later, some Southern Illinois towns adopted Egyptian names such as Cairo, Thebes and Karnak.

The identity only grew after SIU students in 1951 dumped their "Maroons" nickname in favor of sleek Egyptian hunting dogs known as Salukis.

Here in no particular order are our Top 10 Things to See in Little Egypt. There are plenty of others, including the white squirrels of Olney, so don't get mad, just do some research of your own:

1. Mermet Springs: This abandoned spring-fed stone quarry off U.S. 45 north of Metropolis offers recreational scuba diving (15 to 120 feet) in 8.5 acres of water. A jet used in the filming of "U.S. Marshals" is one of the sunken treasures. For $20 a "Try Scuba" session lets you experience breathing under water to see if you want to take scuba certification, but make a reservation. There's kayaking, snorkeling, camping and big fish. National Geographic just visited to do a segment on Mermet's 6-foot-long paddlefish. Information: (618) 527-3483 or visit www.mermetsprings.com online.

2. Superman: In the 1970s the 7,000 residents of Metropolis, across the Ohio from Paducah, Ky.,adopted the super hero. Now there's a Superman museum, souvenirs, cutouts, a chunk of kryptonite, an annual Superman Celebration (June 10-13) and a 15-foot statue of the Man of Steel on Superman Square. On June 11 a bronze statue of Noel Neill will be unveiled; she played newspaper reporter Lois Lane in the Superman TV series in the 1950s and often attends the Superman festival.

Extra: East of downtown is Fort Massac, a replica of an 1800 frontier fort overlooking the Ohio, with displays related to the fort's French and American period and Native Americans; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, free. Call (618) 524-9321.

3. Tunnel Hill State Trail: For bikers and hikers, it runs 34 miles from Harrisburg to Vienna along an abandoned Norfolk Southern railroad bed and another 13 to Karnak near the Cache River wetlands. A good starting point is Tunnel Hill off U.S. 45 about 22 miles south of Harrisburg; it has parking, a 200-foot railroad tunnel, restrooms and the first of the trail's five railroad trestles. Call (618) 658-2168.

4. Cave-in-Rock ferry: Located where Illinois 1 dead-ends at the Ohio River, the ferry to Kentucky is free. There's the well-known pirate cave and a river bluff cafe and cabins starting at $99 a night; (618) 289-4545.

Extra: From May 11 to late October, the 48-passenger Shawnee Queen River Taxi cruises between Golconda, Cave-in-Rock, Rosiclare and Elizabethtown; $10 for a two-hour ride, $20 for four hours, but make a reservation at (877) 677-6123.

Extra: Elizabethtown has Illinois' oldest operating hotel, the Grand Rose built in 1812 and now a B&B with $127-a-night rooms. Call (877) 711-7088.

5. Horseback riding: There are lots of equestrian camps, especially in the Eddyville area of Pope County. But if you don't own a horse, you can still take guided trail rides at Lake Glendale Stables west of Golconda (hourly and unlimited), Giant City State Park south of Carbondale (rock formations, rustic lodge) or Honey Bee Stables near Cobden's orchards. Contact: Lake Glendale Stables, (618) 949-3737; Giant City, (618) 529-4110; Honey Bee, (618) 638-8059.

6. Jackson Falls: Off Glenn Falls Road in tiny Ozark (Johnson County), this Midwest rock climbing hot spot — in a canyon with 30- to 70-foot walls — has Illinois' largest number of climbing routes featuring slopers, pockets, crimps and jugs. Climbs average 60 feet in height and many are free-standing towers. The nearest convenience store is eight miles away at Ozark Road and U.S. 45.

Extra: Near Ozark is Camp Ondessonk, a popular summer camp for kids. However, after Labor Day, it's open to the public for horseback riding, meals and overnight lodging that includes open-air tree-house cabins ($8 a night).

7. Garden of the Gods: USA Today called this wilderness area one of the 10 great places to photograph rock formations, especially Camel Rock (which will be used on the U.S. Mint's 2016 quarter). Includes an observation trail, camping and more. Follow Illinois 1 south to Karber's Ridge Road an hour or so southwest of Evansville, then head west on Karber's Ridge, watching for signs.

8. Bald Knob Cross: Completed in 1963 as the western hemisphere's largest cross, the 111-foot structure on a hill 1,000 feet above sea level is being renovated to replace the granite base and 900 steel panels covered with a white porcelain veneer. It's west of Alto Pass, a village south of Carbondale via old U.S. 51.

Extra: Alto Pass also is home to the kitchy Northwest Passage & Root Beer Saloon, an emporium with gourmet sandwiches, several micro-draft root beers and a wild decor. Go on a weekend from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call (618) 893-1634.

9. Wine trails: Southern Illinois has two of them — the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail (12 wineries) south/southeast of Carbondale, (618) 967-4006, and the Southern Illinois Wine Trail (six wineries) closer to Vienna, (888) 659-WINE).

Extra: One of the more modern and unusual wineries is Blue Sky, resembling a Tuscan villa with ceiling fans made of windmill blades. Call (618) 985-WINE for directions.

10. San Damiano Retreat, on a 225-foot bluff above the Ohio. It's located west of Rosiclare (near the junction of Illinois 34 and 146) and includes 30 cabins ($68 to $98 a night), walking paths, a chapel and a buffet the first Sunday of every month. Call (800) 716-1558 or visit www.sandamianoretreat.com online.

BOX: For Southern Illinois tourism information, call (800) 248-4373 or visit www.southernmostillinois.com online. You can also call the Southern Illinois Tourism Development office at (888) 998-9397 or visit www.adventureillinois.com online.