www.fgks.org   »   [go: up one dir, main page]

Travel



Posts tagged with

PARIS

July 8, 2009, 8:00 am

The Wide Parisian World of Free Music

The Aurore Quartet at La Chope des Puces. Matt Gross for The New York Times The Aurore Quartet at La Chope des Puces.

In the deep red light bathing the back end of Le Baron, a former brothel that is possibly the most exclusive nightclub in Paris, Josh Weller — a young British singer-songwriter who looks like a cross between Poindexter from “Revenge of the Nerds” and Kid from Kid ’n’ Play — was finishing off his set. With the audience singing along, he brought his tune “What Will My Girlfriend Say?” to a dramatic crescendo, his voice echoing both Conor Oberst and Jack White, before ending it suddenly and silently. After the applause, he issued a polite request: “Please buy my album so that I can eat.”

Outside Le Baron after a show.Matt Gross The New York Times Outside Le Baron after a show.

The Frugal Traveler was sorely tempted. Despite the stringent door policy — you don’t get in unless the doorman knows you, or in my case, my friend — there’s no cover charge at Le Baron (6, avenue Marceau; 33-1-4720-0401; www.clublebaron.com). But alas, my friend and I had already bought two tiny bottles of Heineken that cost a hilarious 10 euros each ($14.30 at $1.43 to the euro), and I was feeling less than flush.

Besides, I had more music to listen to that week, and who knows how many more overpriced drinks to buy. During my nine frugal days in Paris, I was trying to see as many bands as possible, in as many genres as possible, from classical and religious music to the chansons of the prewar period to the French hip-hop I’d discovered in college and the indie rock and Afropop I’d become enamored of in recent years. All this on a budget of 100 euros — a sum I assumed would vanish instantaneously. Read more…


July 1, 2009, 7:27 am

Hunting for Treasure in Paris’s Marchés aux Puces

Porte de ClignancourtEd Alcock for The New York Times A trader in unusual trinkets at the Porte de Clignancourt.

A teddy bear missing an eye. An Air France handbag. Empty tins of Soviet-era caviar. Tripods and traffic lights. A lava lamp. Fur coats and cheap suits. A bad painting of ships under full sail. Piles of antique leather camera cases. And nowhere to maneuver.

This was the flea market along and around the Rue de Bretagne on an afternoon in late May: crammed with bric-a-brac; shoppers swerving, stopping, accelerating and trying not to step on the toes of the people dining at the outdoor cafes; and me, the Frugal Traveler, hunting not just for a bargain but for something truly special — without, at first, much luck.

The flea market at St.-Ouen.Ed Alcock for The New York Times The flea market at St.-Ouen.

The marchés aux puces, or flea markets, of Paris are legendary. In fact, the name itself originated at the biggest and most famous, St.-Ouen, just outside the city’s ring road at Porte de Clignancourt, where back in the 1880s (according to ParisPuces.com, a Web site run by the Association des Puces de Paris St. Ouen) an “unknown bargain hunter” looked down from nearby fortifications, observed junk dealers selling scrap metal, rags and old furniture, and exclaimed, “My word, but it’s a market of fleas!” Read more…


June 26, 2009, 12:23 pm

Paris On a Budget

Canal St.-MartinOwen Franken for The New York Times Picnicking, a favorite and inexpensive Parisian summer rite, on the banks of the Canal St.-Martin.
Photographs Slide Show »

This weekend’s cover story, “Frugal Paris,” may surprise regular readers of the Frugal Traveler. After all, it was only a little over a year ago that I wrote my last “Frugal Paris” piece, as part of my “Frugal Grand Tour.” Why, then, return to a city I’ve previously covered?

Two reasons. First, last year’s piece, in which I rented an apartment and confined myself to the everyday pleasures of a small set of neighborhoods—the 10th, 11th and 12th Arrondissements, mostly—was more a pit stop in a summer long journey. It was intimate and personal (it ended with my throwing a frugal dinner party for a group of international friends). It was minor key. This year I wanted to tackle Paris on a grander (if more detached) scale—to seek out the classic, enjoyable (and affordable) delights of a city that too often can seem over-exposed and overpriced.

Second, Paris—like New York, London and Tokyo—is a big city. There are a near-infinite number of ways to approach it: dozens of angles, hundreds of themes, thousands of museums, shops, restaurants and people to discover. This weekend’s story is just one particular take, a look at Paris from the point of view of the strivers, schemers, hustlers, freeloaders and starving artists who made it the lovely, romantic, livable city it is today. It’s a way to do Paris cheaply and without suffering (well, without suffering too much).

Read my full story, here.


April 24, 2009, 6:45 pm

Europe on a Frugal Budget

ParisEd Alcock for The New York Times The Cour Carrée, the courtyard in the western wing of the Louvre, becomes a kind of free theater set at dusk.

As the Frugal Traveler discussed in his recent post that took a look back at his European Grand Tour of last year, traveling in Europe on a budget — particularly during the summer months — is no small feat. This weekend, the Travel section offers up a special package with suggestions on how to experience the best of 10 European cities on two budgets: $250 a day or $1000 a day.

The articles offer five categories: where to stay, where to eat, where to party, where to shop and how to experience the city in a creative way. Here are those 10 cities, with some of the frugal highlights you’ll find. Read more…


June 13, 2008, 12:18 pm

Never on Sundays?

I should really know better by now, but it takes me by surprise every time, leaving me flustered and confused.

Shoppers find the Galeries Lafayette department store in Paris closed on a Sunday. Most non-food retailers in France are required by a 1906 law to close shop on the Shoppers find the Galeries Lafayette department store in Paris closed on a Sunday. Most non-food retailers in France are required by a 1906 law to close shop on the “Lord’s day.” (Alastair Miller/Bloomberg News)

I’m talking about Sundays in Europe, when pretty much everything shuts down, leaving poorly prepared tourists (like moi) in the lurch. This is true in big cities, when museums, restaurants and supermarkets are frequently closed, as well as in small towns and villages, when you’re lucky to find a bakery that’s open.

There are exceptions. In Barcelona, I remember that many Chinese-owned businesses stayed open, despite possible fines. And in Geneva, where I had the odd pleasure of spending several Sundays, there is L’Omnibus (23 Rue de la Coulouvrenière; 41-22-321-4445; www.omnibus-cafe.ch), a fabulous and affordable restaurant that’s not only open Sunday, but open late. Next time you’re in that timepiece capital on a Sunday, go there for a kir royal, fondant au chocolat, and crack open one of the French pulp novels on the bookshelf.

In the meantime, however, I’d love to get your advice: What to do on a slow Sunday? Are there certain types of businesses that are reliably open? What should a frugal Grand Tourist do when everyone else is resting?


May 28, 2008, 5:49 pm

Making Friends (and Dinner) in Paris

Paris—city of light! capital of romance! home to epicures and bon vivants!—has always been, for me, something of a lonely city. I’ve visited several times before, and though I wasn’t always solo (one trip was with my family, another was to visit the woman who would eventually become my wife), I would end up pacing the streets by myself for hours, unsure of what to do and where to go and how to find someone, anyone, to connect with.

I’m not exactly shy, and my French, though rusty, is enough to get by. But this insecurity is what I imagine many visitors to New York City feel — the unshakable feeling that they simply don’t belong.

Last Wednesday, as I rode the train from Calais to Paris, the prospect of loneliness filled me with dread, even though I had a dozen friends and friends of friends to contact. Worse, I had a new worry: my budget. I’d spent 49.90 euros, or $80.34 at $1.61 to the euro, on this leg of the voyage, 8 euros more than if I’d booked the train ticket on www.voyages-sncf.com in advance. (Not much, but hey, that’s lunch.) And Paris itself would be unforgiving when it came to extricating every last centime from my wallet. Those Michelin-starred restaurants, exquisite couturiers and lushly glamorous hotels would not be particularly friendly to a frugal traveler attempting the Grand Tour of Europe on less than 100 euros a day.

Still, I had a few tips to my name. Instead of a hotel, where rooms that week were going for no less than 80 euros a night (even on EuroCheapo.com, a smartly written guide and booking site), I rented an apartment. And rather than Craigslist’s Paris site, which features hundreds of vacation rentals, I searched VivaStreet.fr and pap.fr, which do the same thing, but for a French-speaking audience. There, I hoped, I’d find a nicer place, offered by someone who wasn’t scheming to rip off American tourists.

But where in Paris to stay? I polled friends who knew the city, asking where I might find the new, hip quarter. There was no consensus. Artists, they said, were moving east, to parts of the 20th Arrondissement near Père-Lachaise cemetery, while the Faubourg St.-Denis, a seedy zone near the Gare du Nord, was sprucing itself up.


In the end, I settled on a studio on the edge of the 10th Arrondissement, because it was within relatively easy reach of all those other neighborhoods — and because I found a great apartment. The place, a ground-floor studio around the corner from the Goncourt Métro, was about 250 square feet, with a decent kitchen and Internet access, and it opened onto a light-filled courtyard. And it cost just 350 euros a week, no deposit necessary. I e-mailed a scan of my passport to the owner, and apartment B at 8, rue Jacques Louvel Tessier was mine. When I arrived Wednesday afternoon, I traded cash for the key, and began my life as a Parisian.

Read more…


July 31, 2007, 10:24 am

Frugal Traveler: Tell Matt Where to Go in Oregon and Washington

Next week, the Frugal Traveler is driving to Oregon and Washington. He needs your help. Do you know a cheap motel, a great place to eat or a must-see attraction? Share your tips with Matt here.

Back to Article


About the Frugal Traveler

Seth Kugel, the Frugal Traveler, seeks first-class living at steerage prices. Follow his column as he wines, dines, slogs and blogs his way around the world. About Seth Kugel:

Follow the Frugal Traveler

Get text messages informing you of the latest Frugal Traveler articles and blog posts. Text FRUGALALERTS to 698698.

  • Standard rates may apply
  • To stop receiving alerts, text STOP FRUGALALERTS to 698698.

Then become a Facebook fan and subscribe to his Twitter stream.

Frugal Traveler

  • Loading Twitter messages...

Past Jaunts

The European Grand Tour
The European Grand Tour

Over 13 weeks and on less than 100 euros a day, Matt Gross circled the continent, recreating the classic journey as a budget-minded, modern-day jaunt.

American Road Trip
American Road Trip

Matt Gross crossed 26 states in a summer adventure, starting in New York and ending in Seattle, on a $100 a day.

Around the World in 90 Days
Around the World in 90 Days

From Beijing to Albania, Matt Gross hopscotched the globe using low-cost carriers, buses, trains, ferries and readers' tips.

More Travel News from The New York Times

36 Hours: 36 Hours in Bologna
By ONDINE COHANE

Bologna is a dynamic counterpoint to more popular, touristy cities like Rome and Florence. It is as famous for its cuisine as it is for its fiery left-leaning politics.

Practical Traveler: How to Avoid Credit Card Problems Abroad
By MICHELLE HIGGINS

For years, American travelers have had trouble using their credit cards in other countries. Now some card issuers are trying to do something about it.

White Nights of St. Petersburg, Russia
By JOSHUA HAMMER

After seven months of winter, come 80 nights when the sun barely sets and celebrations grip the city.

36 Hours: 36 Hours in Stockholm
By STEPHEN WHITLOCK

During the long days of summer, Stockholm moves outdoors, an easy feat since water and parkland make up nearly two-thirds of the city.

Explorer: In Cajun Country, in Search of the Boucherie
By JOHN O’CONNOR

Searching for gastronomic thrills in the form of a boucherie, or the communal butchering of hogs, celebrated as an annual festival, in the heart of Louisiana’s Cajun country.

DCSIMG