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The New York Times


MARK BITTMAN

MARK BITTMAN

Mark Bittman is an Opinion columnist and the Times magazine’s food columnist; his Minimalist column ran in the Dining section of The Times for more than 13 years. In 2009, Mr. Bittman, who has been urging Americans to change the way we eat for decades, published “Food Matters,” which explored the crucial connections among food, health and the environment. His most recent book is “The Food Matters Cookbook”; he is also the author of  “How to Cook Everything” and “How to Cook Everything Vegetarian,” among others. Mr. Bittman’s television series include “Bittman Takes on America's Chefs,” “The Best Recipes in the World,” “Spain: On the Road Again” and an upcoming series based on his Minimalist column. His Web site is markbittman.com.
May 31, 2011, 8:30 pm

Hooked on Meat

KAŞ, TURKEY — I sit on this peaceful peninsula marveling at how long it’s been since Odysseus sailed the eastern Mediterranean. Then I realize that those millennia are nothing compared with how long our species might take to adapt to the inexorable spread of the American diet.

Once, we had to combine hunting skills and luck to eat meat, which could supply then-rare nutrients in large quantities. This progressed — or at least moved on — to a stage where a family could raise an annual pig and maybe keep a cow and some chickens. Quite suddenly (this development is no more than 50 years old, even in America), we can drive to our nearest burger shop and scarf down a patty — or two! — at will.

Because evolution is a slow process, this revolutionary change has had zero impact on the primal urge that screams, “Listen, dummy, if you can find meat you’d better eat it, because who knows when you’ll eat it again!” At some point our bodies may adapt to consuming unlimited quantities of meat or — a better alternative — our minds will crave less. Right now, primal urge and modern availability form a deadly combo.

We’re crack addicts with a steady supply. Beyond instinct and availability, there’s a third factor: marketing. When you add “It’s what’s for dinner” to the equation, you have a powerful combination: biology, economics and propaganda all pushing us in the same direction.

Read more…


May 17, 2011, 8:30 pm

Imagining Detroit

Detroit was once called the Paris of the West, but at this point it’s more reminiscent of Venice. Like Venice, its demise has been imminent for some time, as crucial businesses and huge chunks of the population flee.

And, like Venice, it has a singular look. Not everyone will find Detroit beautiful, but with its wide, often empty boulevards, its abandoned, ghost-like train station and high-rises, its semi-deserted neighborhoods and its once-celebrated downtown now jumbled by shuttered storefronts — and the hideous Renaissance Center — it creates a sense of disbelief bordering on fantasy. It’s either a vision of the future or, like Venice, an impossibly strange anomaly, its best days over.

But after spending some time here, I saw an alternative view of Detroit: a model for self-reliance and growth. Because while the lifeblood of Venice comes from outsiders, Detroit residents are looking within. They’d welcome help, but they’re not counting on it. Rather, to paraphrase George Bernard Shaw, they’re turning from seeing things as they are and asking, “Why?” to dreaming how they might be and wondering, “Why not?”

Food is central. Justice, security, a sense of community, and more intelligent land use have become integral to the food system. Here, local food isn’t just hip, it’s a unifying factor not only among African-Americans and whites but between them. Food is an issue on which it seems everyone can agree, and this is a lesson for all of us.
Read more…


May 10, 2011, 8:30 pm

The Future of Cafeteria Food

If you have gone to school, worked in an office, factory, or other large workplace, you’ve probably eaten — and hated — your fair share of institutional cooking. I still remember the name of the food service company that ran the cafeteria where I went to college, and I would still revile it, except it deserves partial credit for forcing me to learn how to cook.

Yet I have seen the future of cafeteria food, and it is bright.
This particular story begins at Mt. Sinai Hospital in New York. I visited its cafeteria on one of the Meatless Mondays instituted by Sodexo, one of the big-three food service companies in the country. Despite Sodexo’s claim to be “the world leader in quality of daily life solutions” — that’s really saying something! — I didn’t expect the food to be great, and indeed it wasn’t.

But it was better than I’d expected, and Meatless Monday was more than just hype: the company was clearly promoting healthy options in general, and meatless ones in particular. More important, the meatless dishes brought new thought and vigor — maybe even inspiration — to the menu, which in general was about what you’d imagine. Since then, Sodexo has expanded the Meatless Monday program to 2,000 locations, including Toyota and the Department of the Interior.
Read more…


May 3, 2011, 8:30 pm

Junk Food ‘Guidelines’ Won’t Help

Imagine your child’s teacher was distributing twice daily snacks, before and after lunch — maybe Snickers and PopTarts in the morning, Mountain Dew and fries in the afternoon. Now let’s pretend you complain to the principal, who tells the teacher, “Could you please stop doing that? You have until … five years from Tuesday.”

Would you allow that?

Yet that’s pretty much what the Federal Trade Commission and other government agencies did last week when they announced food marketing guidelines. The agencies would like Big Food to refrain from marketing to children foods with more than 15 percent saturated fat, 210 milligrams of sodium or 13 grams of added sugar per serving or any trans fat at all.

But instead of announcing, “We have guidelines you must follow, and we’ll give you until January 2012 to comply,” the F.T.C. said, in effect, “We have voluntary guidelines we hope you’ll follow — they’re voluntary, you understand — and in five years we’d like you to voluntarily comply with these voluntary guidelines.”
Read more…


April 26, 2011, 9:29 pm

Who Protects the Animals?

Getting caught is a drag.

Just ask Kirt Espenson, whose employees at E6 Cattle Company in western Texas were videotaped bashing cows’ heads in with pickaxes and hammers and performing other acts of unspeakably sickening cruelty.

Yet if some state legislators have their way, horrific but valuable videos like that one will never be made.

But, first, the story: Espenson, who comes off on the phone as sincere and contrite, explained to me that he’d made a “catastrophic error in a very difficult situation,” when ultracold weather caused frostbite in some of his 20,000 cattle. He was short-staffed and had his best employees saving the endangered but viable cows while new workers were asked to “euthanize” those who were near death. Out came the hammers. “We just didn’t have the protocol to deal with it,” he told me. “I made a mistake and take full responsibility.”

The offending employees have been terminated. Nothing like this has ever happened before. Nothing like this will ever happen again.

Read more…


April 19, 2011, 10:19 pm

What’s Worse Than an Oil Spill?

A year ago, the Deepwater Horizon drilling rig exploded, gushing nearly five million barrels of oil into the Gulf of Mexico before it was finally capped three months later. It was by most accounts a disaster. But when it comes to wrecking our oceans, the accidental BP spill was small compared with the damage we do with intent and ignorance.

I recently talked about this with two men who specialize in ocean affairs: Carl Safina, the author of “A Sea In Flames” and the president of the Blue Ocean Institute; and Ted Danson, (yes, that Ted Danson), who recently published Oceana (the book) and is a board member of Oceana, the conservation organization he helped found. As Safina said, “Many people believe the whole catastrophe is the oil we spill, but that gets diluted and eventually disarmed over time. In fact, the oil we don’t spill, the oil we collect, refine and use, produces CO2 and other gases that don’t get diluted.”

That CO2, of course, leads to global warming and climate change, as well as what’s called ocean acidification, which might be thought of as oceanic global warming and is a greater catastrophe than any spill to date. The oceans absorb about 30 percent of the carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, creating carbonic acid. Since the start of the industrial revolution we’ve added about 500 billion metric tons of carbon dioxide to the oceans, which are 30 percent more acidic than they were a couple of hundred years ago.

Read more…


April 12, 2011, 8:30 pm

How to Save a Trillion Dollars

In the scheme of things, saving the 38 billion bucks that Congress seems poised to agree upon is not a big deal. A big deal is saving a trillion bucks. And we could do that by preventing disease instead of treating it.

For the first time in history, lifestyle diseases like diabetes, heart disease, some cancers and others kill more people than communicable ones. Treating these diseases — and futile attempts to “cure” them — costs a fortune, more than one-seventh of our GDP.

But they’re preventable, and you prevent them the same way you cause them: lifestyle. A sane diet, along with exercise, meditation and intangibles like love prevent and even reverse disease. A sane diet alone would save us hundreds of billions of dollars and maybe more.

This isn’t just me talking. In a recent issue of the magazine Circulation, the American Heart Association editorial board stated flatly that costs in the U.S. from cardiovascular disease — the leading cause of death here and in much of the rest of the world — will triple by 2030, to more than $800 billion annually. Throw in about $276 billion of what they call “real indirect costs,” like productivity, and you have over a trillion. Enough over, in fact, to make $38 billion in budget cuts seem like a rounding error.
Read more…


April 5, 2011, 8:30 pm

Go Philly!

Foodwise, among the most progressive cities in the country right now is Philadelphia, where the alliance of a forward-thinking mayor and a 19-year-old non-profit is moving things forward. Within a year or two, Philly might be funding better access to real food for its poorest citizens by taxing soda. And if you accept the notion that childhood obesity and the accompanying Type 2 diabetes are big problems, and you’re aware that soda is a major cause, you’ll agree that’s a huge step in the right direction.

Even the present is encouraging, because Philadelphia is figuring out its residents’ food needs and demonstrating that government and non-profits can lead the fight against diet-related diseases by putting real food into the hands of people — especially children — who have trouble finding and affording it.

In 2000, Philadelphia had the second-lowest number of grocery stores per capita of 21 major U.S. cities. Today, many of its poorest residents have improved access to supermarkets and farmers’ markets; at some of the latter, their purchases are subsidized. And Food Trust – the nonprofit behind many of these changes – is further improving access by encouraging hundreds of Philly’s corner stores to sell fresh fruits and vegetables.
Read more…


March 29, 2011, 10:28 pm

Why We’re Fasting

I stopped eating on Monday and joined around 4,000 other people in a fast to call attention to Congressional budget proposals that would make huge cuts in programs for the poor and hungry.

By doing so, I surprised myself; after all, I eat for a living. But the decision was easy after I spoke last week with David Beckmann, a reverend who is this year’s World Food Prize laureate. Our conversation turned, as so many about food do these days, to the poor.

Who are — once again — under attack, this time in the House budget bill, H.R. 1. The budget proposes cuts in the WIC program (which supports women, infants and children), in international food and health aid (18 million people would be immediately cut off from a much-needed food stream, and 4 million would lose access to malaria medicine) and in programs that aid farmers in underdeveloped countries. Food stamps are also being attacked, in the twisted “Welfare Reform 2011” bill. (There are other egregious maneuvers in H.R. 1, but I’m sticking to those related to food.)

These supposedly deficit-reducing cuts — they’d barely make a dent — will quite literally cause more people to starve to death, go to bed hungry or live more miserably than are doing so now. And: The bill would increase defense spending.

Read more…


March 22, 2011, 8:30 pm

Food: Six Things to Feel Good About

The great American writer, thinker and farmer Wendell Berry recently said, “You can’t be a critic by simply being a griper . . . One has also to . . . search out the examples of good work.”

I’ve griped for weeks, and no doubt I’ll get back to it, but there are bright spots on our food landscape, hopeful trends, even movements, of which we can be proud. Here are six examples.

Not just awareness, but power | Everyone talks about food policy, but as advocates of change become more politically potent we’re finally seeing more done about it. Late last year, public pressure enabled the federal government to reauthorize the Child Nutrition Act, which will improve school food, and the Food Safety Modernization Act, which will make food safer. (Gripe alert: Neither is perfect, and it’s easy to be critical of both — the child nutrition bill, for example, may be partially funded by a cut to food stamps — but they mark real progress and increase the possibility of further reform.) Combined with increasingly empowered consumers and a burgeoning food movement (one that Time magazine’s Bryan Walsh suggests has the potential to surpass and save the environmental movement), guarded optimism is called for, especially with the farm bill up for renewal in 2012. If the good guys fail to make some real gains there I’ll be surprised.

Read more…


Inside Opinionator

June 3, 2011
Just Drive, She Said

Do movements against male-dominated systems in Saudi Arabia, Italy and France signal a moment of progress for women?

May 27, 2011
French Press

Why can’t the French and the Americans just get along?

More From The Thread »

June 2, 2011
A Way to Pay for College, With Dividends

Why using “human capital contracts” to finance higher education isn’t as scary as it sounds.

May 30, 2011
Instead of Student Loans, Investing in Futures

Is it possible to finance higher education the way we finance start-up companies?

More From Fixes »

June 2, 2011
Fall of the Wild

Can there really be no possible alternative to California’s plan to close one-fourth of its state parks?

May 26, 2011
Twister’s Tale

A season of violent weather and, one would hope, a return to common sense.

More From Timothy Egan »

June 2, 2011
Captain Hannum Attends the Philippi Races

What an Indiana soldier saw at the first battle of the Civil War.

June 1, 2011
When Tennessee Turned South

Why did it take so long for the Volunteer State to secede?

More From Disunion »

June 1, 2011
A Voice From the Past

Anthony M. Kennedy’s opinion in the California prison case recalls the days when the court took charge of failing social institutions.

May 18, 2011
Justice in Dreamland

A decision this week makes it worth wondering what planet the Supreme Court justices have been living on when it comes to encounters between the police and the rest of us.

More From Linda Greenhouse »

May 31, 2011
Hooked on Meat

The human urge to eat meat may be primal, but we can’t afford to wait for it to evolve in the other direction.

May 17, 2011
Imagining Detroit

Can a city come back with the help of markets, gardens and farms?

More From Mark Bittman »

May 29, 2011
Are There Natural Human Rights?

The way we think about the turmoil in the Middle East and elsewhere is shaped by how we understand human rights.

May 22, 2011
The Flight of Curiosity

Why historians of philosophy must resist the contemporary demand for relevance.

More From The Stone »

May 29, 2011
The Trouble With E-Mail

Time to ditch the Web in favor of ‘LDL.’

May 22, 2011
Making a Hashtag of It

Twitter 2011 is a wiki-wit machine specializing in one-liners in the spirit of Dave Chappelle, Chris Rock and Wanda Sykes.

More From Virginia Heffernan »

May 25, 2011
Prague 1970: Music in Spring

The education of a young composer in a time of revolution.

May 18, 2011
Until the Next Revolution

Can composers embrace politics in their work without music taking a back seat to message?

More From The Score »

May 25, 2011
Does It All Come Down to Medicare?

In the 2012 presidential election, the Democrats will try to address the fiscal problems without touching the elderly or the middle class, while the Republicans will focus on tax revenue. No matter how you slice the issue, it’s voodoo policy.

May 18, 2011
Sex and the Politician

Is it really true that voters will overlook almost anything if they think the sinning political figures will carry out the policies they support?

More From The Conversation »

May 23, 2011
What’s Up With the Jews?

Recent events have proven that historical attitudes about Jews, especially negative ones, continue to flourish.

May 16, 2011
Sex, the Koch Brothers and Academic Freedom

When academic freedom is an issue, and when it isn’t.

More From Stanley Fish »

May 20, 2011
The First Shall Be Last — Or, Anyway, Second

Postponing a talk-show debut was only one of the indignities foisted upon the author by network censors.

May 6, 2011
The Week That Was

The assault on Bin Laden’s compound, and the reaction to it.

More From Dick Cavett »

May 11, 2011
Don’t Let Go of the Anger

If Wall Street is not going to be held more accountable, we need to know why.

April 27, 2011
Why Is Enough Never Enough?

The Raj Rajaratnam trial and other recent cases raise questions about money, motivation and risk.

More From William D. Cohan »

May 6, 2011
Suburbia: What a Concept

A design project descends on Levittown.

March 27, 2011
The Future of Manufacturing Is Local

In San Francisco and New York, manufacturing industries are showing signs of life, thanks to a new approach.

More From Allison Arieff »

May 6, 2011
Suburbia: What a Concept

A design project descends on Levittown.

March 27, 2011
The Future of Manufacturing Is Local

In San Francisco and New York, manufacturing industries are showing signs of life, thanks to a new approach.

More From Allison Arieff »

Opinionator Highlights

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A Way to Pay for College, With Dividends

Why using “human capital contracts” to finance higher education isn’t as scary as it sounds.

Instead of Student Loans, Investing in Futures

Is it possible to finance higher education the way we finance start-up companies?

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Are There Natural Human Rights?

The way we think about the turmoil in the Middle East and elsewhere is shaped by how we understand human rights.

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The Path From Charity to Profit

Social businesses require a delicate balance of the humanitarian and the financial to succeed.

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Until the Next Revolution

Can composers embrace politics in their work without music taking a back seat to message?

Previous Series

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Line by Line

A series on the basics of drawing, presented by the artist and author James McMullan, beginning with line, perspective, proportion and structure.

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The Elements of Math

A series on math, from the basic to the baffling, by Steven Strogatz. Beginning with why numbers are helpful and finishing with the mysteries of infinity.

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Living Rooms

The past, present and future of domestic life, with contributions from artists, journalists, design experts and historians.

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Specimens

This series by Richard Conniff looks at how species discovery has transformed our lives.

DCSIMG