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Thursday, June 16, 2011

Dining & Wine

Hey, Mr. Critic

Young Love on a Low Budget

Restaurant advice for a teenager looking for a place to take his girlfriend for lunch; for those seeking steak near the No. 7 train; and for friends wanting a laid-back dinner spot in Park Slope.

Eat

Tender, Crunchy, Sturdy, Bold

When it comes to salad greens, iceberg lettuce is just the tip of the, well, you know.

After El Bulli, Spain Looks Forward

One of the most influential restaurants in the world is closing, but the country’s top chefs are already primed to step up.

Aspen Journal

Meatless Mondays Catch On, Even With Carnivores

More than any other city in America, Aspen has embraced a nationwide pro-veggie effort aimed at persuading people to go meatless at least one day a week.

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City Kitchen

Small Space, Big Flavor: First, Start the Beans

Like pasta, cannellini beans are a good staple to have on hand in a city kitchen pantry, and an hour of gentle simmering is usually all it takes.

Restaurant Review

Masa

Masayoshi Takayama’s restaurant in the Time Warner Center has been a temple of sushi since it opened in 2004. But extraordinary food alone does not an extraordinary restaurant make.

The Cook Who Couldn’t Taste

In her memoir, Molly Birnbaum, an aspiring chef, recounts her recovery from a head trauma that left her without a sense of smell.

The Knife Rack Goes High-End

The demand for high-end kitchen cutlery keeps growing, with more people preferring custom selections like carbon steel blades.

Dining Briefs | Recently Opened

Fedora

For those curious about the cutting-edge Canadian meat-centricity, but not enough to trek to Long Island City to M Wells, the new Fedora in the Village is just the place.

Dining Briefs | Recently Opened

Maison Premiere

Stagecraft dominates the experience at this raw bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, until the moment the seafood shows up.

Food Stuff

New on Smith Street, Croissants and Cured Fish

A stretch of Carroll Gardens is now home to a breakfast and lunch restaurant by the owners of Seersucker, also in the neighborhood, and a smoked-fish shop.

Bamboo Pickles, With Grandma’s Help

Pickles by Bamboo Ladies, stacked in rings in the jars, are tangy and crunchy.

Juicers for a Cocktail Splash

The four-in-one juicer by Quentin de Coster and the Joseph Joseph Catcher allow for a quick dash of citrus fruit flavor in drinks.

The Pour

Psst: A Secret for White Burgundy Lovers

The 2008 vintage yielded a trove of racy, lively wines full of the mineral flavors prized by white Burgundy lovers.

Peas and Mussels, Fresh Off the Farm, a Fine Summery Pair

A complexly flavored, multitextured, only slightly sweet dish of mussels.

Off the Menu

Dohyo opens in the Yotel hotel in Hell’s Kitchen; Smashburger comes to Brooklyn; and more restaurant openings and chef moves.

Dining Calendar

Cocktails for charity; a herring hoopla; a lecture on the history of the potato; Father’s Day cooking demonstrations; and more events this week.

Food, Phone, Opinion. A New App Is Born.

A new smartphone application called Recco is, at its core, a recommendation service for foodies with short attention spans.

Week in Review

E. Coli Fallout: My Salad, My Health

Every bite of lettuce is a vote of confidence in the systems that bring greens to our plate. But that trust can be misplaced.

Diner’s Journal

The Minimalist: Strawberry Fool

Mark Bittman makes strawberry fool, a classic British summer dessert, in a new Minimalist video.

Small U.S. Farms Find Profit in Tourism

To survive, small farmers in America are increasingly turning to nonfarm activities, like operating bed-and-breakfasts.

T Magazine

Ristretto | On the Rocks

I’m not giving up cold-brew coffee — but the thing to try this summer is the “Japanese iced method.”

Dining in the Region
Westchester Dining | Mahopac

A Journey Through Nuevo Latino Flavors

Ramiro’s 954 offers inspired spins on traditional dishes and ingredients from all over Mexico and South America.

Long Island Dining | Woodbury

Asian Fusion? Mission Accomplished

Many restaurants on Long Island claim to serve fusion cuisine, but Asian Bistro Next Door delivers with dishes like the miso Caesar salad, the ultimate marriage of East and West.

Connecticut Dining | East Haven

An Elegant Spinoff With Italian Flair

La Pergola, a fine-dining arm of Tolli’s Apizza, serves contemporary Italian-American fare, much of it unusually well crafted.

New Jersey Dining | Montclair

Flavors of Middle East, and Its Hospitality, Too

The Four Seasons Kebab House in Montclair offers an eclectic collection of Middle Eastern standards, with fresh ingredients and novel preparation.

Filling the Void Left by El Bulli

When the most influential restaurant in the world closes, who will step up to take the lead?

Masa

Photos of the sushi emporium at the Time Warner Center, which Sam Sifton reviews this week.

Recipes for Asparagus

Eighteen ways to use one of spring’s quintessential vegetables.

Congressional Snacking, State by State

The Times asked a small selection of lawmakers what home-state treats they set out for visitors to their Capitol Hill offices.

Starred Restaurant Reviews

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