Background: Max's Grille celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. That's almost a generation, and judging by the crowds that wait for one of the 150 seats on the always bustling patio, it's a much-loved destination for young and old, locals and tourists. While it calls itself a "modern American bistro," it's more like a crusty old tavern — comfortable and mostly dependable.
First impression: As one of two original tenants at Mizner Park — and the only original restaurant — Max's has many mouths to please and offers a menu with something for everyone. Some of those items might have once been cutting edge, so look to daily specials for fresh ideas.
Ambience: After 20 years, it still looks good — clubby and comfortable — and not overly decorated. But one of the dining rooms was recently unpleasantly warm.
Starters: One of the best bread baskets around comes filled with seeded flatbread and hummus. You might start with Max's signature chopped salad ($9.50), which seemed a bit underdressed. Heirloom tomato short stack ($14) is stacked with not-so-creamy house made mozzarella drizzled with balsamic. The tomatoes were not quite at their peak. Pigs in a blanket ($5) contains a nitrate-free, mini beef frank covered in puff pastry and served with mustard and sauerkraut. It tasted like something from a 1970s cocktail party. Crispy calamari and zucchini ($10.50) was pleasantly crispy. But one of the best things I tasted was a special salad made with arugula, watermelon and feta cheese ($10). Perfectly dressed, and all of the elements were featured in perfect proportion. Another standout was the mussels ($13) in a not-quite-spicy tomato-based broth.