Fix Now, Save (a Lot) Later

Potential problem: Overgrown foundation plantings can channel water down exterior walls, leading to mold and sill rot. What's more, roots can work their way into foundation walls and pipes.

Fix it now: Trim shrubs yourself. Better yet, replace them with dwarf varieties that won't be a perpetual pruning headache. In many parts of the country, planting in early fall gives shrubs a head start at establishing roots in the season's cool, moist soil. Save money by shopping end-of-season sales at garden centers or hosting a neighborhood plant swap. "Just be sure that any new shrubs are at least 3 feet from the foundation," says TOH land-scape contractor Roger Cook. "Otherwise they'll keep the siding from being able to breathe."

TOH Tip: The compact variety of Japanese holly (pictured) grows slowly and densely, making it an ideal choice for foundation plantings.

What you'll save: Between $400 and $2,500 to fix a water-damaged foundation and sill.

Potential problem: Failing to maintain the boards' protective top coat of polyurethane can lead to ground-in dirt and discoloration, and cause wood to dry out and splinter.

Fix it now: At the first sign of wear, sand only the floor's surface and apply a fresh coat of polyurethane. Pros charge about $1.25 per square foot for this "screen and poly" job, or you can rent a floor-polishing machine and do it yourself for less. Just bring the machine back on time or the cost of additional days' rental could whittle away at your savings.

What you'll save: Up to $5 per square foot for a full-fledged refinishing, which requires sanding down to the bare wood. The overall cost depends on how old the floors are, the number of top coats needed, and if you are using stain. Replacing sections where dried-out wood has splintered or cracked starts at $125 and can go up substantially based on the scope of the damage and the floor type.

Potential problem: If not kept in check, soft boards and loose outer rails can lead to deck collapse. Probe cracks with a flathead screwdriver; if you can insert it more than a quarter inch or if the wood feels spongy or breaks off without splintering, you may have rot. See if the rails have any give by firmly wiggling them.

Fix it now: Pry off damaged boards. Cut replacements to length and secure them to the supporting joists below using stainless deck screws. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between any new boards for proper drainage. To hide the repairs, stain or preserve the boards to match the rest of the deck. Remedy loose rails and balusters by updating old fasteners with new screws, adding construction adhesive for extra strength. Tighten any loose bolts that secure the rails' posts to the deck framing. Besides a few hours of your time with a saw, drill/driver, and wrench, expect to spend about 60 cents per linear foot for pressure-treated decking and $14 for a box of stainless screws, both vailable at home centers.

What you'll save: From $500 to $10,000 for a professional to fix or replace the deck, depending on how widespread the damage is.

Potential problem: Blistering, cracking, or peeling of the protective finish can cause woodwork to rot. Particularly vulnerable are protruding surfaces where water sits, such as windowsills, which may need to be replaced if the damage is extensive.

Fix it now: Scrape, sand, prime, and repaint all trim that has a worn finish. For houses built before 1978, take special care during the paint removal phases to protect yourself, your family, and the environment from lead dust, which is toxic. The easiest way to fix any minor rot damage to the wood surface is to dig it out until you get down to a solid section, then fill the void with an epoxy before refinishing.

What you'll save: About $135 per window for a pro to replace a sill that's rotted beyond repair.

TOH Tip: Work inside when repainting windowsills so that you don't have to use a ladder.

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