When you live in a region dominated by the largest mall in North America and ringed by suburban power centres, you really have to think outside the big box to find quirky, interesting neighbourhoods in which to shop. That’s where we come in. Every second week in Style, we’ve been introducing you to a fun, unexpected or offbeat shopping area that you might never have noticed or, at least, never fully appreciated. It might be just a couple of blocks or a bigger ’hood with a bunch of worthwhile stops. No matter, you can shop, browse, snack or just stroll around. We’ll walk you through it.

EDMONTON - Tucked alongside Mill Creek ravine, just south of downtown Edmonton and north of the light-industrial eyesore that clears the mind of all thoughts of shopping, 99th Street beckons with a quaint and quirky assortment of shops, many catering to the eclectic mix of houses and apartments in the neighbourhoods nearby.

It’s close enough to the Whyte Avenue shopping district to walk on a day when the weather co-operates, yet far enough to escape the crowds that can overtake Old Strathcona on balmy weekends.

And unlike Whyte Avenue, which is heavy on trendy knick-knacks, clothing and bars, 99th Street skews more to the cosy café/hearty food side, and that can only be a good thing, right?

“The neighbourhood’s fantastic,” says Yvan Chartrand, the owner of and creative force behind Tree Stone Bakery and the tiny, adjacent café, the Pomegranate, on 99th Street.

“I’ve had businesses in other places, but here, people walk in with a smile. They’ll walk in and say ‘Hi, Ritsuko,’ (to his wife) or ‘Hi, Yvan.’ That’s the beauty of the people here; they’re not just coming for shopping per se, but they come also to have a relationship with the people they buy from.

“For us, that’s why this place met so much of our needs. That’s exactly what we’re trying to promote as a family business — relationships with customers. We’re able to get that in this neighbourhood, which is great. I probably wouldn’t be able to do that on Whyte Avenue, but here on 99th Street, I can get that.”

Just down the street, the larger, newly renovated Wild Earth Bakery also benefits from the neighbourhood’s warm, homey vibe, says manager Chelsey Campbell.

“It’s a little bit more of an old-school neighbourhood — everybody knows each other’s names and you know the people around you. It’s pretty unique in Edmonton and that’s something we definitely fed on when we did our renos,” she adds.

“We wanted to keep with that neighbourhood uniqueness and keep it still warm and earthy and kind of like walking it into your own living room.”

Warm and homey are the operative words for many of the small businesses at the northern edge of the neighbourhood, from funky Culina Mill Creek and the intimate wine bar Bibo next door to Cally’s Teas down the block.

But 99th Street also includes an eclectic mix of other spots that refuse to be pigeonholed, like Barb and Ernie’s, where the enormous breakfasts are matched only by the size of Ernie’s personality.

“I think it’s a really exceptional and special neighbourhood,” says Wild Earth’s Campbell, who frequents area hot spots like Bibo and the Empress Ale House (on Whyte Avenue, just west of 99th Street). I consider myself lucky because I work here, but I also get to live here.”

Here’s a rundown of some of the most interesting finds along 99th, from 89th Avenue to just south of Argyll Road.

Shop

One of these things is not like the others, and in this neighbourhood, it’s definitely Totem Outfitters. A good 10 blocks south of the hotbed of cafés and eateries, Totem’s specialty and raison d’être is sports and outdoor gear.

Unlike its flashier chain competitors, Totem has remained pretty much unchanged in its current location at 99th Street and 73rd Avenue for almost 30 years. Manager and co-owner Pat Boyd says the shop has never done any advertising and has long relied on word of mouth from its loyal customers to keep business thriving.

In the back, you’ll find new and used versions of equipment for almost any sport. Hockey parents rely on it for used skates, pads and pants, but it’s equally accommodating for skiing, baseball, football, golf and lacrosse.

The front of the store offers kayaks, canoes, clothing, outerwear, shoes, boots and hiking equipment. Totem’s shop next door offers skate sharpening plus rentals of skis, snowshoes, canoes and kayaks.

Quirky doesn’t begin to describe O Canada Gear, the uber-specialty shop just off 99th Street at 76th Avenue that sells pretty much anything you could ever imagine emblazoned with a maple leaf.

Owner Joe Nykoluk (JO’Canada, as he jokingly refers to himself), does a good business in corporate logo wear, but also sells to travellers and others looking for Canadian- and Edmonton-specific trinkets.

Next door, Harvest Brewing has everything you need to brew your own beer or ferment your own wine.

Eat/drink

Even in its retail offerings, this neighbourhood sticks to what it knows best — food and drink.

At the extreme south end of our tour, just south of Argyll Road off 99th Street and surrounded by industrial buildings, you’ll find the anomalously hip coffee bar, Transcend.

It’s the original location of the shop that has since spread to include a university-area offshoot and a warehouse for roasting, freeing this spot in a newish strip mall for its main business — selling delicious coffee, to be enjoyed on the spot or taken home in bean form.

Just down the road, another local roaster is hard at work producing its own premium coffee at Java Jive Coffee Factory. This spot focuses more on selling retail beans, teas, syrups and brewing equipment for home use.

Still in the hot beverage category, Cally’s Teas is a wee place chock full of fun teapots, mugs, accessories and of course, tea.

Bakeries are well-represented, with Wild Earth dishing up squares, scones and cookies along with savories like salads and sandwiches for light lunches and snacks. Be sure to try its fabulous tarts, too — the perfect solution when you’ve offered to bring along dessert and don’t have the time, inclination or talent to bake yourself.

For back-to-basic, hearty and delicious breads, rich brioche and flaky pain au chocolat, don’t miss Tree Stone Bakery. Enjoy your pastry with an espresso or cappuccino at the Pomegranate, Tree Stone’s adjoining coffee counter.

Though it only seats eight on a good day, owners Yvan and Ritsuko Chartrand have grand plans to renovate and install a wood-burning oven to make pizza and, better still, authentic Montreal bagels. Yvan has already added a New-York/Toronto style bagel to his repertoire. Watch for the wood-fired version in early summer.

Hearty food seems to be a specialty in this ’hood. Barb and Ernie’s on 99th Street at 72nd Avenue is best known for serving substantial breakfasts that still attract out-the-door lineups after 35 years. Their eggs Benedict come with optional schnitzel or bratwurst, or you can taste their German offerings for lunch or dinner, too.

For an equally kitschy experience with a more ’50s vibe, try Route 99 Diner. Favourites include the authentic diner breakfasts, burgers and pie.

The star of the neighbourhood, food-wise, has to be Culina Mill Creek, a hip and intimate spot with wonderful food. Don’t overlook the tiny, perfect wine bar next door, Bibo, a spot so small and narrow, it seats no more than 10 with another 10 or so standing.

mgold@edmontonjournal.com