The Design of Academical Dress
| Introduction | Classification | Glossary | Design Links |
Classification of Styles
The following classification of Hood and Gown styles is based on that of Nick Groves, FBS, member of Council and former Dean of Studies, in his Hood and Gown Patterns document.
Styles are usually enclosed in square brackets, for example: Burgon shape [s2] for hoods or Cambridge BA [b2] for gowns.
References after a style, e.g. (Shaw, fig.70 & 71), are to the diagrams in Dr. George Shaw's Academical Dress of British and Irish Universities, published in 1995, which is the most widely available book on the subject (see Bibliography for more details).
Simple Hoods
s1: Oxford simple/plain - (Shaw, fig.72)s2: Burgon - (Shaw, fig.70 & 71)
s3: Belfast - (Shaw, fig.86)
s4: Edinburgh - (Shaw, fig.85)
s5: Wales bachelors - (Shaw, fig.83)
s6: Leicester bachelors
s7: Leeds
s8: Sussex
s9: Manchester
s10: Aston
s11: Glasgow Caledonian
s12: King's College London bachelors
Full Hoods
f1: Cambridge - (Shaw, fig.75 & 76)f2: Dublin - (Shaw, fig.79 & 80)
f3: London - (Shaw, fig.87)
f4: Durham doctors - (Shaw, fig.84)
f5: Oxford doctors - (Shaw, fig.73 & 74)
f6: Durham BA
f7: Durham BCL
f8: Edinburgh DD
f9: Glasgow
f10: St.Andrews
f11: Warham Guild
f12: King's College London masters
f13: UMIST doctors
f14: AIC doctors
f15: Toronto
Aberdeen Hoods
a1: Aberdeen/CNAA - (Shaw, fig.77 & 78)a2: Leicester masters - (Shaw, fig.81 & 82)
a3: Kent
a4: East Anglia
a5: Leicester doctors
a6: Dundee
Bachelors' Gowns
b1: Oxford BA - (Shaw, fig.38 & 3)b2: Cambridge BA - (Shaw, fig.37)
b3: Cambridge MB etc - (Shaw, fig.31 - 36)
b4: London BA - (Shaw, fig.42)
b5: Durham BA - (Shaw, fig.41)
b6: Wales BA - (Shaw, fig.45)
b7: Bath BA
b8: Imperial College diplomas
b9: Belfast BA - (Shaw, fig.39)
b10: Dublin BA - (Shaw, fig.40)
b11: Reading BA - (Shaw, fig.43)
b12: Sussex BA - (Shaw, fig.44)
Masters' Gowns
m1: Oxford MA - (Shaw, fig.49)m2: Cambridge MA - (Shaw, fig.48 & 50)
m3: Dublin MA - (Shaw, fig.52)
m4: Wales MA - (Shaw, fig.59)
m5: London MA - (Shaw, fig.56)
m6: Manchester Victoria MA - (Shaw, fig.57)
m7: Leeds MA - (Shaw, fig.54)
m8: Leicester MA - (Shaw, fig.55)
m9: Bristol MA - (Shaw, fig.51)
m10: CNAA MA - (Shaw, fig.4)
m11: Lancaster MA - (Shaw, fig.c)
m12: St.Andrews/Glasgow MA - (Shaw, fig.53)
m13: Aberdeen MA
m14: Open University (all degrees)
m15: Warwick MA - (Shaw, fig.a)
m16: Bath MA - (Shaw, fig.b)
m17: Sussex MA - (Shaw, fig.58)
m18: Manchester new
m19: King's College London
Doctors' Robes
d1: Cambridge/London - (Shaw, fig.60 & 63)d2: Oxford - (Shaw, fig.62)
d3: Cambridge MusD/St.Andrews - (Shaw, fig.61)
d4: Oxford lay/gimp gown - (Shaw, fig.g)
d5: Oxford Convocation habit - (Shaw, fig.f)
d6: Sussex doctors - (Shaw, fig.64)
d7: Aston
d8: Cambridge DD undress
Undergraduate Gowns
u1: Cambridge basic (King's etc) - (Shaw, fig.18)u2: Oxford scholar - (Shaw, fig.8)
u3: London - (Shaw, fig.10)
u4: Durham
u5: Oxford commoner - (Shaw, fig.7 & 9)
u6: Sussex
u7: East Anglia
Academic Caps
h1: Square cap (Mortar-board) - (Shaw, fig.88)h2: Tudor bonnet - (Shaw, fig.89)
h3: John Knox cap - (Shaw, fig.90)
h4: Bishop Andrewes cap - (Shaw, fig.91)
h5: Oxford cap - (Shaw, fig.93)
h6: Sussex pileus - (Shaw, fig.92)
h7: Leicester doctoral cap (modified biretta)
h8: UEA BA "Fr Brown" hat (no longer used)
h9: UEA MA "Highwayman" hat (no longer used)