If you happen to find yourself this summer at a black-tie affair, eating macaroni and cheese out of a tiny carafe with a doll’s spoon, consider Gillian Reagan’s recent piece in the Observer about the rise of “ironic” food: gourmet pigs-in-blankets, tiny butter-lettuced B.L.T.s, or other kinds of childhood fare offered at trust-fund prices. (The old steak tartare, perhaps, just can’t hold its own against the elfin mini-burger.) Reagan’s discussion begins in Henri Bendel’s store on Fifth Avenue, where the Greenpoint baker Sarah Magid was serving homemade snack cakes imitating the store-bought: “People see it and say, ‘Oh my God, is that a Twinkie and it’s…organic?” Magid said. (Note to enthusiasts: “organic” does not mean “calorie-free.”) Of those peddled by the folks at Hostess, “sitting on the shelf and gathering dust,” Magid said, they’re “not meant for human consumption, if you break down what the ingredients are.”
Steve Ettlinger’s culinary-science study, “Twinkie, Deconstructed,” just gone paperback, has done exactly that. Ettlinger investigates, in order, every ingredient on the box, in an effort to explain to his kids where high-fructose corn syrup, for example, comes from. It’s not exactly a bedtime story. (“Red No. 40 and Yellow No. 5 are made from oil, some processed by European companies, some by domestic companies, but most likely from Chinese petroleum refined in the Yellow River Delta at the edge of the Yellow Sea,” he writes.) What would Magid think of her fellow Brooklyn bakers who’ve gone even further around the anti-organic bend, claiming to have invented the deep-fried Twinkie? (Moreover, how did it leapfrog from Bay Ridge to the Indiana State Fair?)
The deep-fried Twinkie has been unironically on the menu at the 40/40 Club, the Flower District night spot, since it opened, and today, the executive chef Juan Jara, who helped put it on the menu, said that it’s staying. “A lot of people actually ask for them,” he said, including Jay-Z, who owns the club. Five party platters (eighty-five dollars each) of deep-fried twinkies have been pre-ordered for tonight, to accompany watching the fourth game in the Lakers-Celtics N.B.A. finals. 40/40 plans to expand to Tokyo and Macau, prompting the question of whether Yellow No. 5, in the form of a deep-fried Twinkie, will be making its way back to its origins.—Lauren Porcaro