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It's full steam ahead for Shanghai's drinking and dining scene these days — and should visitors be unaware of the fact, the name of the city's newest fashionable eatery, a FuturePerfect, blazes from its backlit signboard in a cheerful boast. The brainchild of Frank Steffen, who also owns Shanghai's trendy Arch[an error occurred while processing this directive] bar, a FuturePerfect is located down an alley off Huashan Road, where old men in pajamas squat against shikumen walls.

The restaurant comprises a tastefully understated dining room — staffed by servers in gray bloomers — or courtyard seating. Choose the latter and you'll be dining beneath centuries-old camphor trees while gazing at the stars (smog permitting). The menu is European, seasonal and surprisingly affordable (the much touted Mary's Lamb, served with creamy mashed potatoes, sells for a little over $10). Open from 7 a.m., a FuturePerfect is also locally famous for the opulence of its breakfasts — just the thing to set you up for a day's business or (as is just as likely, given the current vibrancy of Shanghai nightlife) to send you home after a night's wassail. Reservations can be made on (86-21) 6248 8020.