Like a mirage or bright hallucination, I looked out the windows in disbelief. Statues in bronze. Banners unfurled in the wind. And Kim Il Sung, North Korea's Great Leader, hulking everywhere. A golden soldier, frozen in ecstatic joy, one hand curled around the DPRK flag and the other imploring me to follow him. Lone citizens in dark suits walking with an erect gait to here or there...
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