Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2021-07-22| Others in Party: | Daniel
David
Jen S
Jen R
| | Date: | Thursday, July 22, 2021 | | Ascent Type: |  Successful Summit Attained | | Motorized Transport to Trailhead: | 4x4 Vehicle | | Peak: | Gannett Peak | | Location: | USA-Wyoming | | Elevation: | 13810 ft / 4209 m | Ascent Trip Report
This was a 6 day trip, using the Ink Wells trail on the way in. This was my third try to climb Gannett over the course of 9 years, so happy to finally summit for HP #48! What made it even sweeter was that my brother Daniel came all the way from Paris, France to climb with me! He is in excellent shape, being a marathon runner, but had no climbing experience, and I am grateful that he was open to trying this adventure with me. We employed David Bowers of Exum Mountain Guides (along with two excellent porters Jen Sparks and Jen Reddy) to help with our climb. I recommend David highly, his route picking abilities (especially through the boulder field) and overall guidance were extremely helpful.
Day 1, Jul 19 - Arrived at Crowheart and bought permits for travel across the Wind River Indian Reservation. From here we were transported in a 4WD truck to the Cold Springs trailhead, a trip of about 1.5 hours. Saw a black bear on the drive up, along with many antelope. From the trailhead, there is a gradual elevation gain on somewhat rocky trail to the top of Scenic Pass, an elevation gain of about 1600 feet over 3.5 miles. Then gradual descent until one reaches Echo Lake. We continued to the junction of the Glacier and Ink Wells trails, where horse camp is, at about 10000 feet.
Day 2, Jul 20 - Packed up and continued up Glacier trail to above Wilson meadows to our high camp. This featured multiple stream crossings, only one of which required us to remove shoes. At one point, we encountered pack llamas on the trail. Based on what I was told, I would advise not to use pack llamas, as they are prone to deciding to simply sit down and not move. One group was unable to summit because their llamas went on strike. I would estimate there were at least 20 climbers at the high camp on this day, including one couple that packed all the way in from the start of the Glacier trail (25 miles) with plans to climb starting at midnight. Reports that we had were that the bergschrund was intact, and conditions were good.
Day 3, Jul 21 - Arose at 3:15 am to attempt the summit. We could see from the lights that some climbers were already near the summit, meaning they had started at midnight. We negotiated the boulder field in darkness, and I felt quite tired. After only about 800 feet of elevation gain, and reaching the start of the first snowfield, I felt completely exhausted as sunrise started to break. We looked towards the peak and saw that it was completely enveloped in fog/clouds. Couldn't tell if there was more significant weather behind it. After a too-long break, I had a heart-to-heart discussion with our guide and we decided to take a rest day and attempt the climb on following day (which we had reserved as a weather day). We decided at this point to cache our crampons and ice axes, so as not to have to carry them back up the next day. Descended and went immediately to tent to catch some Z's. Spent most of day simply resting in tent when it wasn't roasting us (it got pretty warm!). There were no thunderstorms, despite the clouds we saw (weather prediction had been about 30% chance)
Day 4, Jul 22 - In view of warm weather and opinions of other climbers, we decided to depart a bit earlier, at 2:15 am. Thanks to the rest, and perhaps not carrying the ice ax/crampons through the boulder field, I felt much more energized, and cautiously optimistic. Just hoping weather would hold, as there was slightly higher chance of thunderstorms this day. We proceeded up across snow, then rocks/talus for a while and eventually to base of Gooseneck. There was a fairly well worn snow trail there, snow was in good shape. David/Jen set some good protection above the bergschrund and we were able to climb it, actually felt quite invigorated(!) as we went up. Still glancing up at greyish clouds that didn't seem to have moisture in them so far. We proceeded up to ridge and then traversed along it, there was some ice but nothing too difficult. Finally...the top. Turned on cell phone, my brother was able to call his family in Paris from the top! David called to office and found out that Grand Teton was getting stormed out, so we wanted to descend as quickly as we could before any weather. So began downclimb. Took us a very long time on the bergschrund. It lightly hailed there, but fortunately no actual serious weather. Descent continued for what seemed like nearly endlessly in the boulder field, as we didn't go quite as directly on our way back, and kind of relaxed after realizing we were not going to get pounded by a thunderstorm after all.
Eventually got back to camp for nice rest and good dinner of mashed potatoes/vegetables/bacon.
Day 5, Jul 23 - We had many long discussions trying to decide where we would camp in the evening. The problem is that there is no reliable water beyond Echo Lake (on the Ink Wells trail) and we would need to be at pickup point by 10 am on the next day. Echo Lake is about 8 miles from the Cold Springs trailhead, requiring very early departure on day 6. There is another lake, Ink Wells Lake, but the trail is super faint in this area, and David thought it would be incredibly difficult to follow in the early morning darkness, when we would have to depart. We headed down trail, and decided to camp just past Echo Lake. Mosquitos were numerous but tolerable with head nets, and the lake is very warm, good place to swim! Had some delicious burnt popcorn along with good meal.
Day 6, Jul 24 - Arose at 3 am again, skipping breakfast/coffee to be sure we would make it to pickup point. We lost trail going up towards Scenic pass, but found it again at top. Got to trailhead at about 8:15 am, so then enjoyed breakfast/lunch, and was pleased to see ride arrive slightly early, with a 12-pack of Blue Moon beer to share among all hikers(!) (a second group had also just arrived for their ride back), in a much newer truck that speeded our descent back to Crowheart, where we were reunited with my wife Maried. Great trip!
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View of Gannett from Ink Wells trail (2021-07-19). Photo by Walter Blume.
Click here for larger-size photo. | | Summary Total Data | | Total Elevation Gain: | 3020 ft / 920 m | | Total Elevation Loss: | 3020 ft / 920 m | | Round-Trip Distance: | 7.4 mi / 11.9 km | | Quality: | 10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale) | | Route Conditions: | Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Stream Ford, Mud/Swamp, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Aid Climb | | Gear Used: | Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Guide, Porters, Tent Camp | | Weather: | Pleasant, Calm, Clear | | Ascent Statistics | | Gain on way in: | 3020 ft / 920 m | | Distance: | 3.6 mi / 5.9 km | | Route: | gooseneck | | Start Trailhead: | 10790 ft / 3288 m | | Time: | 7 Hours 2 Minutes | | Descent Statistics | | Loss on way out: | 3020 ft / 920 m | | Distance: | 3.7 mi / 6 km | | Route: | gooseneck | | End Trailhead: | 10790 ft / 3288 m | | Time: | 9 Hours | GPS Data for Ascent/Trip
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Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Walter Blume
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